In 1924, as he embarked on his historic quest to be the first to conquer one of the world’s tallest mountains, Mount Everest, renowned mountaineer George Mallory engaged in a heartfelt conversation with his wife Ruth. Recently, digitized letters have brought to light this intimate exchange between the adventurous couple.
In 1924, Mallory, a renowned English mountaineer, found himself facing slim odds of reaching the peak of Mount Everest on his third attempt.
Archived online by Magdalene College, the collection of 842 handwritten letters provides a captivating glimpse into Mallory’s journey, highlighting the arduous challenges he confronted while battling fierce winds and freezing temperatures during his ascent.
In his last letter to his wife on May 27, 1924, Mallory opens up about his experiences on the mountain:
Mallory expressed his feelings about the difficult time he had been through, stating, “Dear girl, this has been a challenging period overall.” Reflecting on the immense effort and fatigue, as well as the discouraging view from the tent door onto a snowy world, he acknowledged that there were numerous positive aspects to counterbalance the hardships.
Mallory’s Everest attempts began in 1921
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In September 1921, Mallory embarked on his inaugural expedition to Mount Everest. Accompanied by his schoolmate, Guy Bullock, Mallory aimed to conquer the mighty mountain. Unfortunately, their ascent was hindered by strong winds, forcing them to halt their journey at a valley known as North Col, as reported by Britannica. In his 1924 letter, Mallory expressed his exhilaration upon revisiting the very spot that had previously posed challenges for him.
“The old gang achieved a triumphant milestone during their initial visit to the North Col,” Mallory expressed. “I relished the victorious ascent over the icy wall and overcoming the challenging crux of the route, as well as forging a path through the steep final 200 feet. Odell played a vital role in leading the way from the camp to the Col.”
Mallory abruptly ceased writing after completing five pages on his ascent.
In a letter to his wife, Mallory expressed his need to stop as the candle was nearing its end.
In his letter, Mallory concluded by reassuring his wife and instilling in her a sense of optimism for his impending ascent of Everest.
Mallory expressed his heartfelt wishes to his beloved, hoping for the best possible outcome. He eagerly anticipated the moment when her anxiety would cease, and he eagerly awaited the arrival of his message. Mallory acknowledged the challenging odds they faced, admitting it was a daunting 50 to 1 against them.
Who is George Mallory?
George Mallory, born on June 18, 1886, had a passion for mountain climbing from a young age. During his time at Winchester College, Mallory was approached by one of his teachers to join a climbing expedition in the Alps, the tallest and most expansive mountain range in Europe. According to others who climbed alongside him, Mallory’s talent for navigating challenging routes and his agile climbing technique were unrivaled. Britannica reported this, highlighting Mallory’s exceptional abilities.
After temporarily setting aside his mountain adventures, Mallory was sent to France to serve in World War I. Following the war, Mallory pursued a career in teaching but his passion for climbing remained strong. He joined the Alpine Club and took on a prominent role as one of the lead climbers in the club’s preparations for their inaugural expedition to Mount Everest in 1921.
Mallory’s third and final attempt to scale Everest commenced on an unclear date. However, on February 13, 1924, he did sign a “Mount Everest Expedition Agreement.”
On May 27, 1924, he penned his last letter to his wife, which was dated just over three months after the previous one.
According to a report by BBC News, it took 75 years before Mallory’s body was finally found on Mount Everest on May 4, 1999.
According to the archivist at Magdalene College, the letters depict the Mallorys’ trek on Mount Everest.
“It has been a real pleasure to work with these letters,” Magdalene College archivist Katy Green said in a statement about the letters. “Whether it’s George’s wife Ruth writing about how she was posting him plum cakes and a grapefruit to the trenches (he said the grapefruit wasn’t ripe enough) or whether it’s his poignant last letter where he says the chances of scaling Everest are ’50 to1 against us’ they offer a fascinating insight into the life of this famous Magdalene alumnus.”
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